Trafalgar Square in the early 1900s stood as a gray, paved expanse in the center of London. Coal smoke from millions of chimneys stained the stone buildings and monuments with a layer of dark soot. Nelson’s Column rose sharply above the haze, anchoring the space while the four bronze lions at its base watched over the crowds. The air smelled of horse manure, exhaust fumes, and damp wool.
Traffic moved in a chaotic, noisy loop around the central island. This era marked a distinct transition in transportation. Heavy horse-drawn omnibuses clattered over the cobblestones, their drivers sitting high up in open air. Beside them, early motorbuses and private automobiles roared and sputtered. The engines were loud and frequently backfired, startling the horses. Pedestrians dodged between wheels and hooves to cross the street, as there were no traffic lights to control the flow.
On the pavement, life followed a strict social order. Wealthy Londoners walked toward the National Gallery in tailored suits and wide-brimmed hats. Working-class men in flat caps swept the streets or delivered goods. Flower girls sat near the base of the monuments with baskets full of violets and roses. They called out prices to passersby, their hands rough from the cold and the work. Bootblacks knelt nearby, polishing the leather shoes of businessmen until they shined against the grime of the city.
The fountains in the square sprayed water into wide basins, but the water often looked murky under the gray sky. Children sailed small toy boats in the pools on clearer days. Above them, flocks of pigeons descended in thick clouds. Feeding these birds was a popular pastime. Vendors sold bags of seed for a penny, and tourists stood still while birds landed on their arms and hats. The ground was often slick with bird droppings and discarded seed husks.
