Before 1920, a woman seen smoking a cigarette risked her reputation. It was viewed as scandalous — a firm violation of the rules that kept women’s behavior in a narrow, prescribed lane. Then the decade turned, and so did the culture. The passage of the 19th Amendment in 1920 gave American women the right to vote, and the ripple effects reached far beyond the ballot box. Women began pushing back against traditional gender roles in visible, deliberate ways. Smoking was one of them.
A smoking suit for women, 1922.
The fashion industry responded quickly. Tailors and designers introduced “smoking suits” made specifically for women — a direct nod to the male smoking jacket tradition, now recut for a female audience. These weren’t just functional garments. They were a statement. Wearing one signaled that a woman had claimed a space that had never been offered to her.
A lady wearing a smoking suit, reading a newspaper by the fireplace, 1922.
At the center of this cultural shift was the flapper. Young women who bobbed their hair, shortened their skirts, danced to jazz, and smoked openly in public were labeled flappers — and the label stuck. They weren’t just breaking rules for shock value. They were constructing a new identity, one built on visibility and self-determination. The cigarette, held aloft in a long elegant holder, became one of the era’s most recognizable symbols.
Two girls sharing a cigarette after a swim, 1925.Aquatic smoking at Scarborough, north Yorkshire, 1920
Smoking wasn’t confined to jazz clubs and speakeasies. Women smoked poolside, at the beach, in their parlors, and on stage. It appeared in casual snapshots and formal portraits alike. The cigarette moved fluidly through every social setting of the decade.
A woman smoking two cigarettes simultaneously with an elegant cocktail cigaratte holder, 1929A woman smokes a cigarette while holding a cocktail glass in the other hand, 1929
Tobacco companies took notice fast. They began crafting advertisements aimed directly at women, and their messaging was calculated. Some campaigns framed cigarettes as a tool of independence. Others — most infamously — suggested that smoking helped women stay slim. Lucky Strike ran ads in the late 1920s urging women to “reach for a Lucky instead of a sweet.” Manufacturers also designed new products with women in mind: slender cigarettes marketed as being “made for women’s lips,” and cigarette holders and cases built with more delicate, ornate designs.
A Santa Proud smoking suit being modelled, 1928.
American journalist Louise Bryant poses for a portrait while wearing a Russian costume with decorated Western cowboy boots, sitting with her knees drawn up, smoking a cigarette, 1920
Public figures played a major role in normalizing the image. Journalists, actresses, dancers, and socialites were regularly photographed with cigarettes. These weren’t candid accidents — they were deliberate poses that shaped public perception. When a well-known actress appeared in a portrait with a long cigarette holder, it sent a message to audiences across the country.
Madge Bellamy, the stage name of Margaret Philpott (1899–1990) the American general purpose actress of the 20s. She was a former dancer and beauty queen. Pictured in languid pose, smoking a cigarette, using a long cigarette holder, 1920A woman smoking a large cigarette and wearing ruffles at collar and cuff, 1926.A gentleman offering his partner a cigarette, 1928.
On stage and screen, cigarettes became a prop and a personality trait. Actresses used them to project confidence, sophistication, and edge. The theater world embraced the look wholesale, and productions featured women smoking as naturally as they might carry a fan or wear a gown.
Actress Marjorie Brooks smoking a cigarette in a long cigarette holder in a production of The High Road, 1927.
Glamorous Australian dancer Dorothy Blanchard smoking a cigarette, 1925.
Cigarettes weren’t the only option. Some women opted for pipes, which in earlier decades had been even more exclusively male. By the early 1920s, a niche but visible group of women adopted pipe smoking as their preferred choice — a deliberate escalation of the boundary-crossing that cigarettes had started.
For todays fashionable woman, pipe smoking is now favoured over the more traditional cigarette, 1922.The Australian beauty Dorothy Blanchard, who has just left London to join the Ziegfeld Follies, smoking a cigarette whilst reclining on a sumptuous bed, 1925.Actress Margaret Campbell, wearing a fur-trimmed outfit with matching slippers, smoking a cigarette, 1928.
Smoking also became a social ritual among women. Groups of friends gathered to smoke together, and these moments built a sense of solidarity. Sharing a cigarette, offering a light, or simply sitting together in a cloud of smoke carried a social weight that went beyond the act itself. It was a form of camaraderie in a decade that was rapidly rewriting what female friendship and public life could look like.
British character actress Enid Stamp-Taylor (1904–1946) smoking with a long cigarette holder, 1926.
Enid Stamp-Taylor smoking a cigarette while wearing a cloche hat designed by Lincoln Bennett, 1927.
Actress Betty Langford smoking with a cigarette holder, 1927.Three friends enjoying cigarettes, 1920.
While some voices in the 1920s raised concerns about the health effects of smoking, they were largely drowned out. The dangers were not yet established in public health science the way they would be decades later. For most women in the Roaring Twenties, the cigarette carried no warning — only the thrill of doing something that wasn’t long ago forbidden.
Flapper Smoking in Skimpy Night Dress, Circa 1920Vintage Fashion: American Motif with Cigarette Holder, 1920Kiki of Montparnasse, Queen of the 1920s, Smoking with StyleFrances White, Star of Jimmie, Enjoys a Cigarette at New York’s Apollo Theater, 1920sAmerican Actress Dorothy Dickson, Circa 1921Pipe Smoking: A Fashionable Choice for Women in the 1920sHop Pickers in Kentish Fields, 1922: A Glimpse of Rural Life with Cigarettes in HandMulatto Girls of Algeria, 1922: A Captivating Portrait with CigarettesStylish Lady in Smoking Suit, Enjoying a Cigarette by the FireplaceActors’ Vacation in Miami Beach, 1923: Millie Muller, Beatrice Coburn, and Fred Hadley with Cigarettes
Pipe Fashions, 1924: A Woman Balancing on a Bench, Delicately Smoking
Night Smoke, 1925: A Woman in Nightwear, Smoking a Hookah Pipe
Seductive Gaze of a Couple in Love, 1925: Cigarette, Rose, and Intense ConnectionWoman with Cigarette Poses on a Sofa, 1925: Captivating and TimelessActress Margaret Campbell in ‘Mercenary Mary’, 1925: Smoking on the London StageFlapper with Necktie and Bowler Hat, London 1925: Embracing Bold Fashion with a CigaretteRuffles and Cigarettes, Circa 1926: A Woman with Elegant Flair
Dorothy Whitney, 1926: Graceful and Chic with a Cigarette
German Empire Smoking Woman, Drapery Shoes, Undated: A Captivating and Mysterious Image
Lady with a Plume Fan, Portrait in Profile, 1927: Elegance and Mystery with a Cigarette
Gloria Swanson in ‘Sadie Thompson’, 1928: Silent Film Star Embraces Complexity and Cigarettes
Give Me A Light, Circa 1928: A Moment of Connection and Request for a Cigarette
Margaret Campbell in Fur-Trimmed Outfit, 1928: Exuding Glamour with a Cigarette
Fashion Pictures: Miss d’Orloff Wearing Applique Hat, 1928: A Stylish Statement with a Cigarette
Actress Mara in ‘Das tanzende Wien’, 1928: Expressive and Alluring with a Cigarette
Gloria Swanson on the Set of ‘Sadie Thompson’, Captivating and Confident
Woman Lounges in Rose Pink Pajamas, 1928: A Chic and Relaxing Moment with a Cigarette
Actress Mary Duncan, Graceful and Poised with a Cigarette
Alla Nazimova, Russian-Born Hollywood Star, Embracing Cigarettes in America
Eva May, Austrian Actress, Smoking with Style, 1920s
American Actress Claudette Colbert, Radiant with a Cigarette
French Actress Yvonne Arnaud, 1922: Effortlessly Elegant with a Cigarette
Wife of Rudolph Friml, Smoking Calmly Amidst the Adriatic’s Explosion, 1920s
Dorothy Blanchard, Glamorous Australian Dancer, Enjoying a Cigarette, 1925
British Actress Enid Stamp-Taylor, Sophisticated with a Long Cigarette Holder, 1926
Lili Damita, French Film Actress and Errol Flynn’s Wife, Radiant with a Cigarette
Kimberly Adams is passionate about classic movies, actors, and actresses. She offers a fresh perspective on timeless films and the stars who made them unforgettable. Her work is an ode to the glamour and artistry of a bygone era, and a tribute to the enduring appeal of classic cinema.