Old Billingsgate Fish Market sat on the north bank of the River Thames on Lower Thames Street. For centuries, it functioned as the heart of London’s seafood trade. The market started as a general wharf for various goods but specialized in fish by the 16th century. In 1875, a grand new building designed by Sir Horace Jones opened to handle the massive volume of trade. This structure featured yellow brick and stone with iron columns and a glass roof to let in natural light. Large statues of Britannia and dolphins decorated the top of the building to signify its connection to the sea.
Trading at the market began long before the sun came up. At five o’clock every morning, the “selling bell” rang to signal the start of business. Huge quantities of fish arrived by boat at the quay and by train at nearby stations. The main hall stayed wet and cold to keep the seafood fresh. Workers known as “fish porters” moved the heavy crates from the delivery areas to the individual stalls. These men performed intense physical labor in a crowded, noisy environment where shouting was the primary way to communicate prices and directions.
Read more..
The fish porters were famous for their specialized equipment and clothing. They wore “bobbing hats,” which were heavy leather helmets with flat tops. These hats allowed porters to carry two or three heavy crates of fish, weighing up to 100 pounds, directly on their heads. This method was the most efficient way to navigate the narrow aisles and slippery floors. Porters held special licenses and often followed in the footsteps of their fathers and grandfathers in the trade. Their presence was a constant feature of the City of London’s early morning life for generations.
Every type of seafood imaginable passed through the market stalls. Merchants sold salmon from Scotland, eels from the Thames, and shellfish from the English coast. Buyers from local restaurants and grocery stores walked the aisles to inspect the quality of the catch. They looked for clear eyes and bright scales to ensure the fish was fresh. The air inside the building smelled strongly of salt and fish, a scent that carried into the surrounding streets. Business moved rapidly because the product was highly perishable.
The market provided a vital link between the ocean and the plates of Londoners. Hundreds of people worked in the building every day, including salesmen, clerks, and cleaners. While the market moved to a new location in 1982, the original Victorian building remains a landmark in the City. The architecture still shows the scale of the operation that once fed millions of people. It stands as a reminder of a time when the river was the main highway for the city’s food supply.
