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China in Vibrant Color: A Journey Through the 1920s & 30s with Serge Vargassoff

Most photographs from early 20th-century China survive only in black and white. Serge Vargassoff’s work is a striking exception. A young Russian photographer who set up his studio in Peking — now Beijing — in the early 1900s, Vargassoff shot on glass slides that preserved vivid, full color. The results are unlike almost anything else from that era.

Pavilion
Pavilion

Vargassoff trained his lens on Beijing’s grand architecture — its parks, palaces, and ceremonial spaces. Beihai Park appears repeatedly in his catalog, showcasing structures that had stood for centuries.

Wulong Ting (Five-Dragon-Pavilion) in Beihai Park
Wulong Ting (Five-Dragon-Pavilion) in Beihai Park
The wall of Tuan Cheng (Circular City) in Beihai Park
The wall of Tuan Cheng (Circular City) in Beihai Park

Beyond Beihai, he documented ceremonial gateways and public parks that defined Beijing’s urban layout during the Republican era.

The Stone Pailou (Gateway) in Zhongshan Park
The Stone Pailou (Gateway) in Zhongshan Park
A glazed gateway with a pavilion in Beihai Park
A glazed gateway with a pavilion in Beihai Park

The Forbidden City also featured in his work. Its Meridian Gate, the grand southern entrance used by emperors for major ceremonies, stands as one of his most impressive architectural captures.

Wu Men (the Meridian Gate) in the Forbidden City
Wu Men (the Meridian Gate) in the Forbidden City

Vargassoff also photographed religious sites across the region, preserving temples that would face significant disruption in the decades ahead.

Dafeng Zushi Temple
Dafeng Zushi Temple

Street life was just as important to him as grand monuments. He documented the vendors, tradespeople, and routines that made up everyday Beijing — people who rarely appeared in formal photography of the time.

Umbrella repair man
Umbrella repair man
A noodle stall on the footpath
A noodle stall on the footpath

Outside the city, Vargassoff traveled to landmarks including the Ming Tombs and the Great Wall, recording sites of deep historical significance with the same careful eye he brought to urban scenes.

The marble statue of a standing camel on the Sacred Way of Ming Tombs
The marble statue of a standing camel on the Sacred Way of Ming Tombs
Part of the Great Wall
Part of the Great Wall

His portraits capture the diversity of Chinese society. A woman in an elaborate headdress, a man at his roadside shoe repair stall, and a horse-drawn carriage on a city street all appear side by side in his collection — traditional life continuing alongside rapid modernization.

A woman wearing a headdress
A woman wearing a headdress
Horse drawn carriage
Horse drawn carriage
A man in his shoe repair stall
A man in his shoe repair stall

Among his most detailed work are the painted clay sculptures at Dahui Si, a Ming-dynasty temple in Beijing. These figures, rendered in brilliant color in his slides, show exactly why Vargassoff’s medium set his archive apart from the era’s typical photography.

Painted clay sculptures of Ming dynasty in Dahui Si (Temple of the Great Wisdom)
Painted clay sculptures of Ming dynasty in Dahui Si (Temple of the Great Wisdom)
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Written by Kevin Clark

Kevin Clark is a historian and writer who is passionate about sharing the stories and significance behind historical photos. He loves to explore hidden histories and cultural contexts behind the images, providing a unique insight into the past.

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