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Capturing the Enigma: Veruschka through Franco Rubartelli’s Lens in the 1960s

Born Vera Gottliebe Anna Gräfin von Lehndorff-Steinort, the German model known as Veruschka stood 6’3″ tall and carried herself like no one else in the fashion world. Her sharp features, long limbs, and a presence that shifted between raw intensity and quiet vulnerability set her apart from every other face of the era. She had lived through the trauma of World War II, and that weight gave her an emotional depth that the camera could not ignore.

Veruschka by Franco Rubartelli, 1965
Veruschka by Franco Rubartelli, 1965

Franco Rubartelli was the photographer who understood exactly what to do with that depth. He did not simply point a lens and shoot. He studied his subjects, waited for the unguarded moments, and pulled out something true. When he and Veruschka began working together in the mid-1960s, the results were immediate and striking. Their photographs for Vogue became some of the most talked-about images of the decade.

Veruschka in "Sea Dream," Vogue, 1966
Veruschka in “Sea Dream,” Vogue, 1966
Veruschka in Pucci-pattern body paint, Vogue, 1966
Veruschka in Pucci-pattern body paint, Vogue, 1966

By 1966, their Vogue work pushed boundaries well beyond standard fashion photography. Rubartelli placed Veruschka in elaborate body paint, draped her in bold jewelry, and framed her against compositions that felt more like paintings than editorial spreads.

Veruschka wears a sun-green solitaire necklace, Vogue, 1966
Veruschka wears a sun-green solitaire necklace, Vogue, 1966
Veruschka with 1966 makeup shades by Helena Rubinstein, Vogue, 1966
Veruschka with 1966 makeup shades by Helena Rubinstein, Vogue, 1966

In 1967, the work grew more adventurous. Rubartelli shot Veruschka in sculptural hairstyles crafted by Ara Gallant, in Egyptian-inspired looks, in Bulgari jewelry, and in garments she designed herself. The range within a single year was remarkable.

Veruschka in a golden sunflower silk crêpe dress, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka in a golden sunflower silk crêpe dress, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka in a pink crêpe dress with a hooded collar, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka in a pink crêpe dress with a hooded collar, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka in a sheer organza djellaba, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka in a sheer organza djellaba, Vogue, 1967

Rubartelli also took Veruschka on location to the Tyrol in Austria, grounding high fashion in the textures of real landscapes. The contrast between her otherworldly appearance and the earthy Alpine setting gave the images a unique tension.

Veruschka in woodcutter's lederhosen, Tyrol, Austria, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka in woodcutter’s lederhosen, Tyrol, Austria, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka wears a Tyrolean flower-adorned hat, Tyrol, Austria, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka wears a Tyrolean flower-adorned hat, Tyrol, Austria, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka wears a gallant stitched wool hat, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka wears a gallant stitched wool hat, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka with coral beads by Giovanni Apa, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka with coral beads by Giovanni Apa, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka wears her design of a gilt-plaited ribbon bodice, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka wears her design of a gilt-plaited ribbon bodice, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka with a Lucite ornament by Sant Angelo, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka with a Lucite ornament by Sant Angelo, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka, jewelry by Bulgari, 1967
Veruschka, jewelry by Bulgari, 1967
Veruschka's sun-disc hair by Ara Gallant, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka’s sun-disc hair by Ara Gallant, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka's hair elongated with an Egyptian god's sidelock, Vogue, 1967
Veruschka’s hair elongated with an Egyptian god’s sidelock, Vogue, 1967

In 1968, Rubartelli moved the work to the American Southwest and beyond. He shot Veruschka dancing through the Painted Desert in Arizona, posing in Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo’s bold colors, and standing against the vast open terrain of Texas and Sedona. The landscapes dwarfed everything except her presence.

Veruschka dances in Giorgio di Sant' Angelo's colors, Painted Desert, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka dances in Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo’s colors, Painted Desert, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Golden Veruschka in a Sant' Angelo bikini, Vogue, 1968
Golden Veruschka in a Sant’ Angelo bikini, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka's curls by Veruschka, makeup by John Robert Powers, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka’s curls by Veruschka, makeup by John Robert Powers, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka carrying Giorgio di Sant' Angelo's embroidery, Painted Desert, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka carrying Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo’s embroidery, Painted Desert, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a colorful silk weskit, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a colorful silk weskit, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a Dalmation-spotted culotte-dress, Alpine Basin, Texas, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a Dalmation-spotted culotte-dress, Alpine Basin, Texas, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a pinafore dress by Geoffrey Beene, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a pinafore dress by Geoffrey Beene, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a blue denim suit by Bardley, Brazil, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a blue denim suit by Bardley, Brazil, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a floral print Ban-Lon dinner dress by Ken Scott, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a floral print Ban-Lon dinner dress by Ken Scott, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a white turtleneck and a brown dirndl skirt, Fort Davis, Texas, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a white turtleneck and a brown dirndl skirt, Fort Davis, Texas, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a two-piece dress by Donald Brooks, Sedona, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a two-piece dress by Donald Brooks, Sedona, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in supple jersey with fur by Giorgio di Sant' Angelo, Painted Desert, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in supple jersey with fur by Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo, Painted Desert, Arizona, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a silk organza dress by Harold Levine, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a silk organza dress by Harold Levine, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a Springmaid cotton blouse, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka in a Springmaid cotton blouse, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka surrounded by butterflies, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka surrounded by butterflies, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka's Dynel hair a-swirl by Sant' Angelo, Vogue, 1968
Veruschka’s Dynel hair a-swirl by Sant’ Angelo, Vogue, 1968

As the decade closed, Rubartelli continued documenting Veruschka across new locations and looks. From a fur-trimmed ski-suit to a lurex mini shot in Colombia, each frame added to a body of work that chronicled her transformations season by season, year by year. What Rubartelli built through his lens was not a catalog of clothes — it was a portrait of a singular woman in full motion through one of fashion’s most restless decades.

Veruschka in a ski-suit with fox-fur mittens, Vogue, 1969
Veruschka in a ski-suit with fox-fur mittens, Vogue, 1969
Veruschka in a lurex mini by Dorothée Bis, Columbia, Vogue, 1969
Veruschka in a lurex mini by Dorothée Bis, Columbia, Vogue, 1969
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