In February 1964, Rio de Janeiro erupted in its annual Carnival — one of the most spectacular celebrations on earth. The timing made it especially charged. A military coup would seize control of Brazil just weeks later in late March, but for now, the streets belonged to the people.
At the heart of Carnival were the samba schools, known as “escolas de samba.” These large, community-based organizations spent the full year preparing their entries. On Sunday and Monday, they marched in fierce competition along Avenida Presidente Vargas in downtown Rio.
Each school built its parade around a theme called an “enredo,” expressed through music, costumes, and towering floats. Salgueiro, the reigning 1963 champion, presented “Chico Rei” — the true story of an enslaved African king who bought his own freedom and that of his people in colonial Brazil.
Top contender Império Serrano based its parade on “Aquarela do Brasil” (Watercolor of Brazil), a celebrated work of Brazilian literature and culture. Their performance was a vivid tribute to the nation’s beauty and identity.
When the judges delivered their verdict, Império Serrano took the 1964 championship title. Beyond the main parade route, the city pulsed with street parties led by “blocos” — informal street bands that wound through neighborhoods, playing music and welcoming anyone who wanted to join.
For wealthier residents and tourists, the Carnival balls — “bailes” — were the main event. Held at prestigious venues like the Copacabana Palace Hotel and the Municipal Theatre, these ticketed, all-night galas drew Rio’s high society.
Guests arrived in elaborate, often expensive costumes and competed for prizes across multiple categories. The balls were known for their extravagance, running through the night until morning. It was a world apart from the street-level blocos, yet both were unmistakably Carnival.
