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Before Freeways and Skyscrapers: What Los Angeles Looked Like in the Late 19th Century

In 1880, Los Angeles was home to roughly 11,000 people. By 1900, that number had exploded past 100,000. What drove that growth? Railroads, fertile land, and a relentless wave of migrants from the Midwest and East Coast who were sold on the idea of a sun-drenched paradise.

Birdseye View of Los Angeles California with Pico House, 1870.
Birdseye View of Los Angeles California with Pico House, 1870.

The Southern Pacific Railroad arrived in 1876, followed by the Santa Fe Railroad in 1885. These two lines connected Southern California to the rest of the country and turned land here into a hot commodity. Agents marketed the region aggressively, and settlers came by the thousands.

Downey, a city southeast of downtown Los Angeles, is seen here in 1875, just two years after the railroad reached the community.
Downey, a city southeast of downtown Los Angeles, is seen here in 1875, just two years after the railroad reached the community.

The railroads didn’t just move people — they sparked entire communities. Coastal towns like Santa Monica saw immediate growth once the tracks arrived, drawing visitors who had never before had easy access to the Pacific shore.

This is North Santa Monica Beach in the 1880s, shortly after the Southern Pacific railroad reached the town.
This is North Santa Monica Beach in the 1880s, shortly after the Southern Pacific railroad reached the town.

Santa Monica quickly became a destination. Tourists arrived by train and found beaches, bathhouses, and hotels waiting for them — a tourism industry built almost overnight on the back of the railroad.

This is the Southern Pacific railroad as it enters Santa Monica. The railroad ignited a bustling tourism industry along the Pacific Coast.
This is the Southern Pacific railroad as it enters Santa Monica. The railroad ignited a bustling tourism industry along the Pacific Coast.
These people are visiting Santa Monica beach in the 1880s. In the distance you can see one of the first iterations of the Santa Monica Pier.
These people are visiting Santa Monica beach in the 1880s. In the distance you can see one of the first iterations of the Santa Monica Pier.

Infrastructure followed demand. The Santa Monica Bathhouse opened in 1876, offering rental rooms, oversized bathtubs, and steam rooms. Developed by Colonel Baker and millionaire John Percival Jones, it was one of the earliest signs of Santa Monica’s resort ambitions.

This is the Santa Monica Bathhouse, built in 1876. It included rooms for rent, enormous bathtubs, and two steam rooms. It was built by Colonel Baker and millionaire John Percival Jones, who developed much of Santa Monica.
This is the Santa Monica Bathhouse, built in 1876. It included rooms for rent, enormous bathtubs, and two steam rooms. It was built by Colonel Baker and millionaire John Percival Jones, who developed much of Santa Monica.

By 1887, the 125-room Arcadia Hotel had opened, complete with a roller coaster on its grounds. Hotels like this catered to a new class of tourist with money to spend and time to enjoy the Southern California climate.

The 125-room Arcadia Hotel opened on January 25, 1887. It was one of the landmark hotels of the era. This is the roller coaster at the hotel.
The 125-room Arcadia Hotel opened on January 25, 1887. It was one of the landmark hotels of the era. This is the roller coaster at the hotel.
This is the view of Santa Monica from the Arcadia Hotel in 1893.
This is the view of Santa Monica from the Arcadia Hotel in 1893.
The Santa Monica Hotel was the first hotel built in the area. It was constructed in 1885 to accommodate the influx of tourists from the railroad.
The Santa Monica Hotel was the first hotel built in the area. It was constructed in 1885 to accommodate the influx of tourists from the railroad.

Back in the city, downtown Los Angeles looked nothing like it does today. Dirt roads and horse-drawn carriages were standard. Cable cars and early electric streetcars began changing that in the 1870s and 1890s, pushing neighborhoods further from the city core.

Cable car downtown on Broadway looking south from 2nd Street, with pedestrians, horses and wagons, Los Angeles California, 1880s.
Cable car downtown on Broadway looking south from 2nd Street, with pedestrians, horses and wagons, Los Angeles California, 1880s.
View of the first electric car over Arroyo Seco near the Cawston ostrich farm, 1895.
View of the first electric car over Arroyo Seco near the Cawston ostrich farm, 1895.

The electric streetcar lines of the Los Angeles & Pasadena Railway Company extended that reach even further, connecting neighborhoods and suburbs that had barely existed a decade before.

A parlor car from the Los Angeles & Pasadena Railway Company at the Altadena station, 1894.
A parlor car from the Los Angeles & Pasadena Railway Company at the Altadena station, 1894.

Main Street and Spring Street formed the heart of downtown commerce. Brick buildings steadily replaced wooden ones as the city worked to cut fire risk. Banks, hotels, and civic buildings gave the area a sense of permanence.

Looking down Fourth Street from Main towards Spring Street, with the Farmers and Merchants Bank and the tall Hibernian Building, Los Angeles, California, 1900.
Looking down Fourth Street from Main towards Spring Street, with the Farmers and Merchants Bank and the tall Hibernian Building, Los Angeles, California, 1900.
Sixth Street looking north from Olive Street, Los Angeles.
Sixth Street looking north from Olive Street, Los Angeles.

Religion and culture were taking root as well. The Cathedral of St. Vibiana, completed in downtown Los Angeles, served as the seat of the Los Angeles bishop for over a century. It stood as one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks throughout the late 1800s.

This is the Cathedral of St. Vibiana in 1895. Located in Downtown Los Angeles, the cathedral was the seat of the Los Angeles bishop for over 100 years. It is now an event space.
This is the Cathedral of St. Vibiana in 1895. Located in Downtown Los Angeles, the cathedral was the seat of the Los Angeles bishop for over 100 years. It is now an event space.

The city’s first theater opened around the turn of the century, and palm-lined streets were beginning to define the look of Los Angeles neighborhoods — an aesthetic that would become synonymous with the city for generations.

The first theater in Los Angeles, 1900.
The first theater in Los Angeles, 1900.
Avenue of palms in Los Angeles, California, 1898.
Avenue of palms in Los Angeles, California, 1898.

Los Angeles had a diverse population from the start. Its first Chinatown, known as the “Chinese Quarter,” thrived from 1890 to 1910. But gambling houses, opium dens, and gang activity led authorities to condemn the area. Residents were forcibly evicted to clear land for what would become Union Station.

This is the "Chinese Quarter" of Los Angeles — the city's first Chinatown — in 1892. This version of Chinatown was in its heyday from 1890 to 1910, but an explosion of gambling houses, opium dens, and gang warfare led the government to condemn the area. The residents were evicted to make room for Union Station.
This is the “Chinese Quarter” of Los Angeles — the city’s first Chinatown — in 1892. This version of Chinatown was in its heyday from 1890 to 1910, but an explosion of gambling houses, opium dens, and gang warfare led the government to condemn the area. The residents were evicted to make room for Union Station.
Chinatown, Los Angeles California, 1890s.
Chinatown, Los Angeles California, 1890s.

Parks and public spaces were also part of life in late 19th-century Los Angeles. Westlake Park — now called MacArthur Park — began as a city reservoir before transforming into a leisure destination surrounded by luxury hotels by the 1890s.

These two people are canoeing in Westlake Park, now called MacArthur Park. The park was originally constructed as a reservoir for the city. By the 1890s, it was a hot vacation spot, surrounded by luxury hotels.
These two people are canoeing in Westlake Park, now called MacArthur Park. The park was originally constructed as a reservoir for the city. By the 1890s, it was a hot vacation spot, surrounded by luxury hotels.

Outside the city limits, the land was largely untouched. The San Fernando Valley stretched out as open, undeveloped terrain around 1890 — no suburbs, no highways, nothing resembling the dense urban sprawl that would come.

This is the San Fernando Valley around 1890. The Valley now encapsulates parts of Los Angeles, Hidden Hills, and Glendale, as well as the cities of Burbank and San Fernando. It is completely undeveloped here.
This is the San Fernando Valley around 1890. The Valley now encapsulates parts of Los Angeles, Hidden Hills, and Glendale, as well as the cities of Burbank and San Fernando. It is completely undeveloped here.
View of Glendale, 1870s.
View of Glendale, 1870s.

Along the coast, beach cities like Redondo Beach drew fishermen and tourists alike. The waters off Redondo were rich with halibut, lobster, and sea bass, making it both a working fishing ground and a recreational draw.

This man is fishing at Redondo Beach, one of Los Angeles' three beach cities. At the time, Redondo was a source of halibut, lobster, and sea bass.
This man is fishing at Redondo Beach, one of Los Angeles’ three beach cities. At the time, Redondo was a source of halibut, lobster, and sea bass.

Venice Beach came slightly later, developed in 1905 as a full oceanfront resort. Builders dug miles of canals to drain the marshy land, then filled the area with attractions including a dance hall, turning a swamp into a spectacle.

Here you can see the beginnings of Venice Beach, Calif., built in 1905 as an oceanfront resort. Several miles of canals were dug in the area to drain the marshy land and a variety of attractions were constructed, including the dance hall shown here.
Here you can see the beginnings of Venice Beach, Calif., built in 1905 as an oceanfront resort. Several miles of canals were dug in the area to drain the marshy land and a variety of attractions were constructed, including the dance hall shown here.
This photo from 1905 shows bathers on the beach in Santa Monica.
This photo from 1905 shows bathers on the beach in Santa Monica.
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