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Women’s Tennis Style in the Early 20th Century: Elegance on the Court

In the early 1900s, women stepping onto the grass courts of a tennis tournament looked more like they were attending a formal dinner than competing in a sport. Floor-length skirts made of heavy white linen or cotton were held out by stiff petticoats, adding serious weight to every step. Underneath, tight corsets made deep breathing difficult mid-match. High-collared blouses, long sleeves, neckties, and wide-brimmed hats pinned to the hair completed the look. Tennis was a high-society sport during the Edwardian era, and the clothing reflected that status entirely.

Tennis players, 1906
Tennis players, 1906
Three young women in light dresses holding tennis racquets, 1900
Three young women in light dresses holding tennis racquets, 1900

Every match was a physical battle not just against an opponent, but against the garments themselves. The weight and heat of full-length skirts and stockings tested a player’s endurance before the first set was even finished.

Women playing tennis, 1906
Women playing tennis, 1906
Chicago girls at Sokol Sports in Prague, 1912
Chicago girls at Sokol Sports in Prague, 1912

The 1910s brought measured change. Hemlines crept up just enough to expose the ankles, reducing the risk of tripping on a serve. Fabrics grew lighter, improving airflow in summer heat. But modesty rules held firm — long sleeves and stockings remained standard even at high temperatures.

Gladys Ingalls, 1910s
Gladys Ingalls, 1910s
Florence E. Sutton, 1910s
Florence E. Sutton, 1910s
Elisabeth Moore, 1910s
Elisabeth Moore, 1910s

Tournament players of this decade wore outfits that were a compromise — slightly less restrictive than the Victorian era, but still far from practical athletic wear.

Marie Wagner and Mrs. C.N. Beard, 1913
Marie Wagner and Mrs. C.N. Beard, 1913
Clare Cassell and Mrs. Marshall McLean at the Montclair Athletic Club women's singles tournament, 1913
Clare Cassell and Mrs. Marshall McLean at the Montclair Athletic Club women’s singles tournament, 1913
Florence E. Sutton, 1910s
Florence E. Sutton, 1910s
May Sutton, 1910s
May Sutton, 1910s
Florence E. Sutton, 1910s
Florence E. Sutton, 1910s

Indoor tournaments drew the same dress standards as outdoor play. Players competing at venues like the Women’s National Indoor Tennis Tournament in New York still appeared in long skirts and structured blouses.

Alberta Weber at the Women's National Indoor Tennis Tournament in New York City, 1915
Alberta Weber at the Women’s National Indoor Tennis Tournament in New York City, 1915
Mrs. Marshall McLean at the Montclair Athletic Club women's singles tournament, 1910s
Mrs. Marshall McLean at the Montclair Athletic Club women’s singles tournament, 1910s

The 1920s broke everything open. French star Suzanne Lenglen arrived at Wimbledon in a knee-length pleated skirt and a sleeveless top — an outfit that shocked spectators but let her run, jump, and reach shots that were physically impossible in older styles. She swapped hats for a silk headband called the “Lenglen bandeau,” which kept hair clear without adding weight. By the late 1920s, corsets were gone. Loose tunics, elastic waistbands, and lightweight canvas sneakers with rubber soles replaced the heavy leather boots of the previous decade. White remained standard, as it hid perspiration and reflected sunlight.

Woman modeling tennis fashions at Burdine's in Miami, 1929
Woman modeling tennis fashions at Burdine’s in Miami, 1929
Women walking at Fyris Square in Uppsala, Sweden, 1902
Women walking at Fyris Square in Uppsala, Sweden, 1902
St. Anne's Union Lawn Tennis Club in Waterford, 1924
St. Anne’s Union Lawn Tennis Club in Waterford, 1924
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